The “Joy of Angels” Carillon

Photo by Hiroko Kuyama

Tucked into the densely wooded Shigaraki mountains about an hour outside the Japanese city of Kyoto is the spiritual sanctuary of the Shinji Shumeikai. The Shinji Shumeikai, or Divine Light Organization, is a fellowship founded in 1970 that believes in the power of art and beauty to heal the human heart and restore balance in the natural world. Rising above the trees in this sanctuary is one of the most remarkable carillons in the world, a carillon created by the famous architect I. M. Pei to symbolize the aesthetic purity of the fellowships beliefs and to contribute the beauty of music to that aesthetic.

Carillons are mainly a Western instrument. They consist of groups of anywhere from just over twenty to more than seventy bells of different sizes and tones that are hung high above the ground. The bells are connected by wires to a keyboard, which is played by the carillonneur, who can create a wide range of music from Bach to show tunes. Carillons were developed in Europe in the 17th century and later spread to England, the United States, and Canada. This is one of the few carillons found outside the West.

I.M. Pei was commissioned to create the carillon to complete the complex that was the home for the Shinji Shumeikai. There was already a sanctuary building surrounded by a large plaza that could seat more than 5,000 people. The sanctuary was approached by a long stone path. Pei planted trees along this path, and he sited the carillon tower at the head of this path.

The tower is almost 200-feet tall. It rises from a large, square base and flares out at the top to a slender blade that is sixty feet wide but only two inches thick, as shown in the picture above. Made of white Vermont marble, the slabs of marble are seven feet high at the base but then become smaller and smaller as they go upward, increasing the impression of great height. There are fifty bells that came from the Royal Eijsbouts bell foundry in the Netherlands, one of the world’s most noted modern foundries. Mounted in three tiers, the bells are covered by a bronze roof that both protects them and amplifies their sound.

Not far from this spiritual sanctuary is a Buddhist temple celebrating a Buddhist deity who is surrounded by a choir of angel musicians. Because it was felt that the carillon became part of this heavenly choir, it became known as the “Joy of Angels” carillon. Music is played on it regularly during the day, adding to the spiritual energy of the sanctuary.

In 1997, I. M. Pei added another remarkable structure to the site, the Miho Museum, a light filled building of glass, steel, and granite that houses a collection of exquisite ancient art from around the world. Pei designed the museum as the destination of a spiritual journey; you begin the journey by walking on a sloped path lined with cherry trees and then enter a long, austere tunnel where you become insulated from the outside world. As you emerge from the tunnel, you cross a stunning suspension bridge and come into the courtyard of the museum. You then climb up the steps to enter the museum.

Miho tunnel and bridge

Miho interior

This journey was inspired by a famous Chinese tale “Peach Blossom Valley” about a fisherman who lived in Eastern China. As this fisherman was rowing up a mountain stream, he came to a lovely peach orchard in bloom. At the end of the peach orchard, he noticed a ray of light coming from a small cave in the mountain. He entered the cave and followed a narrow path which went deeper and deeper into the mountain. Suddenly, the path came to an end, and he emerged into a beautiful valley. This was the fabled Shangri-La or paradise.

Pei was inspired by this tale and its vision of paradise, and translated it into the journey up the path, through the tunnel, and over the bridge to discover the museum. From some of the windows of the museum, you can see the carillon tower rising above the trees, also part of the journey.

In 2010, the well-known saxophonist Paul Winter brought his group of Eastern and Western musicians to the museum to record an album “Miho: Journey to the Mountain,” On the album, the musicians explore the journey of this spiritual retreat, and, interspersed in the music, are the lovely sound of the bells.

I.M. Pei has always been known for how he melded nature, form, and art in his architecture. The elegant, sculptural tower of the “Joy of Angels” carillon is a wonderful example of his work.

For the next BellTalk, join me on my adventure of crossing the Pacific on a freighter to see the chime bells of ancient China.

  Share your own memories, thoughts, and stories about bells with Jaan at: jaan@thebellsbook.com